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"I think we're going to serve McDonald's, Wendy's, Burger King, with some pizza," Donald Trump told the press in an interview on Monday mormine, dissine the White House's planned banquet that night for the Clemson University Tigers, i n celebration of their victory this vear's N.C.A.A. football championship. "I realy mean it will be interesting. I would think that's their favorite food. So we'll see what happens." As with so many Trump promises, it could have been just a gust of wind. So it was something of a surprise–a smal, mild surrise, like a sudden ich on the sole of your foot--when, on Mooday night, phons began to roll out of Trump gring behind a mahogany ding table arranged with siver trays bearing stacked of Filet-o-Fishes and Quarter Pounders, and MeNuggets, and a few dozen of something in paper wrappers from Wendy's, and of anonymous-looking salads, and a couple of pizzas, and Burger King frics that some hapless aides had ded into paper cups bearing the Presidential seal.

       Far be it from me to defend any of Trump's choices, but serving a meal of fast food at a fancy gathering is inherenly a bad idea. In fact, it can be wonderful. A few dozen and thighs from Popeyes or a Chick-fl-A nugget tray make for a festive dinner-party centerriece. Shake Shack-catered weddings all over Pinterest. less glittery an event than the Vomir Oscar has served In-N-Out burgers to its throngs of the gorgeous and powerful. There is, at many of these occasio class-based pantomime—guests invited to eat fast-food in a designer dress, it's the food that is presented as a novli,not the couture. But the culinary pleasures are real chicken, famously, only gets more delicious if cools down, and, you hire In-N-Out and Shake Shack to do the catering at your event, they show up in person and sing their burgers fresh.

       Trump's bulk order, on the other hand, was a dinner fighting against the odds. One imagines those poor sandwiches steaming Nimply inside their cardboard boxes on the drive the White House, and during the fuss over arranging them on siver platter psese (with sauces sorted by type and piled high in silver gravy boats) and properly lighting the gided candelabra. Then came the tho shoot: Trump, centered beneath a portrait of Abraham Linginginging his arms out behind this table onick-serve ahandance, in n e that's equal parts ownership and invitation. There is a particular awfulness to McDonald's or Burger King once it's go By the time Amperica's greatest collegiate foall players arived, in their navy blazers and Sunday shoes, to pick porcelain plainaia and wock their way through this cardboard butlet, the French fries would have grown cold and mealy, the buns sogs soggy, the precise half slice of American chese on each Filet-o-Fish sandwich hardened to a tough, flavorless rectangle of yellow.

Trump's affinity for fast food has been well documented since the earliest days of his pubic life. the nineties and early two-thousands, he Rimed commercials for Pizza Hut and McDonald's. On the campaign trail, at a televised Chown hall, he explained to Anderson Cooper that he enjoyed "a fish delight," refeming to the Filet-o-Fish. continued, "The Biss are great. The Quarter Pounder. It's great stuff." Trump seemed to relish posing with fast food, especially the winking high-low of Instagram

photos of himself eating value meals on his private plane: here's Donald Trump gring with a bucket of K.F.C., there's Donald Trump griming with a Big Mac and a cardboard sleeve of fries. His former campaign manger Corey Lewandowski wrote, in in in ine Trump Be Trump," his book chrocicling the campaign, that "on Trump Force One there were four major food groups: Mold's, Kentucky Fried Chicken, pizza, and Diet Coke," and his boss's go-to McDonald's onder was two Big Macs, two Fishes,

and a chocolate milkshake. (After a horfied outcry, Lewandowski clarified that the 2,630-calorie meal is more healthful than it appears , because Trump makes a point of removing the buns.) After taking office, according to a Politico report, preferred a McDonald's Quarter Pounder with chese (lots of ketchup, no pickles) to the White House kichen stafiteration. 

       Trump, in typical form, spun Monday's catering as ultimately the fault of his political opponents, an inevitable elective govemment shundown, which has lef hundreds of thousands of federal employes irloughed--including, presumably, the citchen staff. Trump, a purported billionaire, made a big deal out of the fact that he paid for the fast food o t. But we might wonder if there is also something more pure in his decision to bring in a drive-through feast f  mpt, however opportunistic, for a man who loves fast food to fulfill his straightforward desires--d and griddled patties as money can buy, more Filet-o-Fishes and Quarter Pounders than one bod consume, the teetering towers a quantiable testament to his Presidential power. "We went out and we ondered American food,ne," Trump boasted to the reporters gathered before the fast-food spread, grinning his fast-food grin lt of Abraham Lincoln, painted in 1869, by George Peter Alexander Healy, and praised by Lincoln's eldest ptured of the man. "Lots of hamburgers, lots of pizza. Three hundred hamburgers. Many, ma